FineWatchesBerlin

Press

Beans & Bezels, WATCH REVIEWS by Shreyas Skandan

Contemparary - Quirky - Bauhaus

FineWatchesBerlin is a relatively new German micro-brand started by father-daughter duo Mia Phyllis Liefer and Wilfried Liefer. This is going to be a longer-than-usual review, so I don’t want to spend too much time introducing the brand. Instead, I’ll leave these two links to Mike Stuffler’s interview with this dynamic duo, as well as his own opinions of the brand and watch:

A few things I’d like to note are – that FWB are transparent regarding their manufacturing location, and indicate that this watch is manufactured and assembled in China. The ‘Made in Germany‘ tag is a very loosely defined label anyway, and many of these watches are manufactured in China but assembled in Germany, so I respect their decision to print ‘Designed in Germany‘ instead. And as you will see, they have very strict quality control standards, and the finishing is excellent. Roughly $60 from every sale is donated to Hands with Hands, to help developing communities in Nepal.

Case

The case measures 39.75mm in diameter, 49mm from lug-to-lug and 11.25mm tall. The dimensions on their website differ by a few mm, but this is what I measured with my calipers. The case is entirely polished, and has a simple circular design, similar to Bauhaus style watches from Stowa and Nomos. A narrow polished bezel houses the flat sapphire crystal that appears to have AR coating on the inner surface.

From above, the lugs have a narrow and straight design common to watches in this design genre, but the sides angle down towards the wrist. The lug holes are capped with blue screws, and the lug width is 20mm.

You have the brand’s name engraved on the left side of the watch. I don’t always like engraved cases, but this doesn’t look obnoxious at all, and I think it works.

There is a 5.75mm diameter crown at the 3 o’clock position that is plated with the same rose gold color as the indices and hands.

The top of the crown has the brand’s concentric circle insignia in blue and white. The crown is very well designed, and I didn’t notice any crown or stem wobble.

Flipping it over, you have an exhibition style case back that is attached to the case by means of 6 screws. The exhibition window is also made of sapphire crystal, and the watch is rated for up-to 50m of water resistance.

The Teufelsberg is offered in four different dial configurations, and the special edition Valentina is offered in two. They sent me the Teufelsberg Rosé #4, which has rose gold indices, hands and branding. This watch does bear resemblance to Bauhaus style watches from Stowa and Nomos, but does not follow the serious, symmetrical and rigid design language of the above watches. Instead, the Teufelsberg feels like a joyful, quirky and positively eccentric improvisation of the Bahaus rule book. The design feels like a constant contradiction to the fundamental design principles, but also just seems to work.

The base of the dial has a metallic satin finish, and the color comes across as a silvery off-white.

There is a thin blue border that encloses the minute track. The minute markers are small rose gold colored ticks. You then have circular red markers for every increment of five, that is filled with lume. You don’t expect to see a bold color like red on a watch that is already taking risks with so many rose gold elements, but they did it anyway and I think it looks pretty cool.

You then have a combination of applied stick indices and Arabic numerals for the hour markers. The finishing on these is excellent, and the indices play with light beautifully.

The brand’s initials/logo is applied in a similar manner under the 12 o’clock index. For strict minimal design, even this is too much, but FWB takes it one step further and has it’s brand name next to the 9 o’clock as well. Again, this design appears to be their way of rebelling against the invisible design authority.

And to be completely honest, when Mike Stuffler shared images of this watch on Watchuseek a year ago, I was shocked by the design too. But since that first reaction, I’ve come to actually appreciate it for what it is – a design that just refuses to conform.

And the last act of defiance is the small seconds sub-dial. To balance out the already asymmetric dial layout, I would’ve expected them to place the sub-dial either at the 3 o’clock or the 6 o’clock position. But nope, the recessed sub-dial is located at 4:30, and makes bold use of blue, red and rose gold.

Again, these bold colors might throw you off if you’re used to watches like Nomos, Junghans and Stowa, but the vivid colors strongly resemble those that are found at the Bauhaus school. I have no education in design, neither do I have artistic insight, but this doesn’t seem like a co-incidence to me.
The hour and minute hands are fairly simple, rose gold in color and filled with lume. The finishing on the hands is great and I have no complaints here.

The hour and minute hands are fairly simple, rose gold in color and filled with lume. The finishing on the hands is great and I have no complaints here.

This watch has strong dress watch DNA, so I wouldn’t have been disappointed if it lacked lume entirely. But that isn’t the case here, and the circular dot hour markers and the two primary hands are lumed. The lume design is great, and it is a pleasure to look at.

The hands are very generously lumed. The website doesn’t state what lume material is being used, but I suspect this is C3 Super LumiNova. The circular dot markers are less bright because of the limited surface area, but it is sufficient for about an hour in the dark. Since this isn’t a sports watch or tool watch, I think this is more than acceptable!

Movement

This watch uses a Miyota 8218 movement. This is my first experience with this particular movement, and you don’t see them too often.

This movement has a small seconds hand at the 4:30 position and has a date mechanism at the 3 o’clock position. The result is a ghost date position, which to be fair is not uncommon to watches under $1000.
This movement has been heavily modified to include blue screws and a branded rotor, which is done in rose gold to match the dial. I don’t suspect this was cheap or easy to achieve.
I think this is one of the best decorated Miyota 8XXX series movements I’ve seen to date, so I’ll definitely give them credit here. The movement is very clean and indicates good quality control.

But we need to talk about the movement. At roughly $600 ($586, after 16% VAT deduction), the movement falls a bit short in the overall package. If you ignore the value being delivered in terms of the good finishing, very interesting design, and wonderful story and connection to Berlin, and look at it as a $600 watch with a Miyota 8XXX series movement, it becomes difficult to digest. A Miyota 9XXX series movement would have been more appropriate here, or a standard ETA or Sellita, to move the movement origin closer to home in Berlin.
I logged the accuracy of this watch over a 2 day period, and observed roughly -23 spd.
Since this watch had a very unpleasant journey reaching me from Berlin, I won’t entirely blame the movement for this performance, and will have to hold the courier service responsible for the massive dents on the box. But even by Miyota’s very flexible standards for this watch (-20 to +40 spd), it is just out of spec and I will look at having it regulated soon once the watch recovers from the trauma of it’s journey.

On The Wrist

The 39.75mm diameter case and 49mm lug-to-lug width are quite comfortable on my 6.25″ wrists. Don’t let the 49mm lug width scare you, the slender and long lugs are barely noticeable on the wrist, and this watch does not feel like a typical 49mm lug-to-lug width diver. The lugs also bend towards the wrist, to further reduce the perceived length.

The case is 11.25mm tall, and the case-back protrudes out of the case by about 1.5mm. But the entire weight of x g is very well balanced, and the watch sits low on the wrist.
I’ve enjoyed wearing this watch, and I will continue to wear this one as it sits very nicely on my wrist.
Each watch is shipped with two leather straps, and I received a dark brown and a black one with the Teufelsberg #4. I have had the privilege of presenting some amazing straps on my website so far, and on many occasions these have been straps that cost nearly $100 each. That said, the black strap (with blue stitching) that was included with this watch is one the most comfortable and well made leather straps I have come across.
If it didn’t have the FWB name and logo near the ends, I would definitely use this on my other watches too.

Concluding Thoughts

Putting aside the slightly underwhelming movement, I wouldn’t be surprised if people had very polarizing opinions regarding the design. I don’t think this watch was made for everybody. I don’t think the average watch enthusiast was even kept in mind while designing this watch, the same way an artist doesn’t create based on need. And for that fact, FWB have definitely earned my respect.

Now let’s talk about the price… At $600, this watch feels a bit too expensive in a general sense, primarily because of the choice of movement. But I don’t want to discount the fact that their finishing is excellent, their straps are extremely well made and that their hearts are in the right place. They donate roughly $60 from each purchase to Hands with Hands, an organization that helps communities in need in Nepal. And those that know me personally will know why I can appreciate this. But for the average watch enthusiast who is chasing his/her next micro-brand watch, I think this price will be a difficult one to come to terms with.

But I also believe that there will be a minority of watch and design enthusiasts that will look at this watch and fall in love with it, and to someone who can appreciate the design, this watch will be an easy one to justify purchasing. Similar to the way Unimatic sells their Seiko NH35 equipped watches for over $600, or William Wood with their $900 Seiko NH35 equipped watch.

 

BEANS & BEZELS

A CHICKENWRISTS DELIGHT : One week with the Teufelsberg by FineWatchesBerlin.

From Berlin With Love: One week with the Teufelsberg by FineWatchesBerlin.

in watchblog

It’s no secret that I’m a big fan of German watch manufacturers, all the way from Glashütte to Pforzheim, Schramberg, Gütenbach, Frankfurt and Berlin, the city and home of FineWatchesBerlin. Founded in 2017, the company is run by father and daughter, Wilfried and Mia-Phyllis Liefer, producing watches that are an homage to Berlin, it’s diversity and rich history, both bright and troubled. FWB has named their first watch “Teufelsberg”, which is the name of a 120 meters high, manmade hill in the Grunewald area. The hill was built upon what were to become a university for military technology, one of many visions Hitler had for the renewed Berlin and Germania. The construction was never completed and during the war the facility was destroyed. When the war ended, rubble from the devastated city was brought to the site and dumped, making it the highest point in West Berlin. In 1972, the dumping stopped and to make the hill more attractive, trees were planted, and, in the winter, the population of West-Berlin could enjoy a new ski jump and slopes.

From the 50’s until the end of the cold war in ’89, America took advantage of Teufelsberg position, building antennas used for espionage and intercepting communications from the Eastern Bloc. Today, the remains of the complex, with its is a popular site for tourists, giving them a glimpse of a dramatic history and the best view of Berlin. To end the history part of this review, I’m going to add a little fun fact, the strange happenings from 2007, when my hero, David Lynch, wanted to turn Teufelsberg into a university for the Maharishi World Peace Foundation, where 1000 students were to study transcendental meditation. It didn’t go as planned and even if I deeply respect Mr. Lynch, I’m glad he wasn’t to fulfill his plans.

I don’t think the Lynch part was in Wilfried and Mia-Phyllis’ mind when they came up with the design for the Teufelsberg. When I look at the watch, I can sense that it must have been a fun project, creating a Bauhaus inspired watch with a partly asymmetrical layout, sweet blue details and a somehow funky, italic logo and signature placed at twelve and nine. The version I chose to write about is the Teufelsberg White #2, in my opinion the finest of the three models available. In a little while, two new models will be launched, adding bright colors to the series.

Every time I do a review of a watch I’ve never seen, I try to stay away from other reviews and opinions as I want to know as little as possible about it, keeping my mind clear and open to raw impressions. When I first saw the Teufelsberg, I had to use some time to digest the design and feel of the watch. After spending a day together, things started to fall into place and suddenly I knew where I’d seen some of the details before. The dotted lume reminds me a lot of the type found on Junghans Max Bill and the crown is quite like the one found on the NOMOS Metro date power reserve. Due to the colors and the mark on the crown, I can’t stop thinking this is how a watch would look if the guys from The Who were watchmakers and wanted to produce something Bauhaus’ish.

Taking closer look at the watch, it measures 40,5mm across, 49mm from lug to lug, about 11,5mm from top to bottom and the lug width is set to 20mm, making this very comfortable on the wrist. The dial, with its asymmetry, italic logo and signature, forced me to take a stand if I liked it or not. Being overly addicted to symmetry and balance, it took a little while to accept the layout, but the crisp, enamel-like, sandwich dial, red second hand, polished blue hands and indexes bring it all together. Even if the small seconds are placed 4:36 and the italic letters in the logo aren’t at the same angle, I do find it all very pleasant on the eyes.

Inside the watch FWB has chosen to go for a modified Miyota 8218 with blued screws and an engraved rotor. This is a 21-jewel movement, beating 21600 timer per hour and with a power reserve of approximately 42 hours. Originally, it keeps accuracy within -20 to +40 seconds per day, which is on the lower parts of the scale, but while adding the cosmetic upgrades, the movement has been adjusted to keep time within a five second deviation per day. The watch can be hand wound but lacks a hacking seconds feature.

The case is a fully polished, 316L stainless steel with slim lugs and both crystals, the large in front and the smaller one at the exhibition caseback are made of sapphire. On the case, at nine o’clock, you’ll find a quite large, external engraving, showing the company name. Since the name also is presented on the dial and the fact that I’m not a big fan of such details, I think a clean case would suit the watch better. The crown, with its blue and white target mark, is placed at three o’clock and is thinner than your average crown, but just as with the NOMOS Metro’s, the grip is superb, letting you wind and set time with ease. The Teufelsberg comes with two, very nice leather straps, a brown and a black, both with blue stitches, matching the blue details on the watch perfectly. Fitted with quick release spring bars, changing straps can be done in a blink of an eye.

Each watch comes in a very nice, handcrafted bamboo box with magnetic closure. Apart from the watch, the box contains the extra leather strap and a warranty card. I like the presentation very much, but I’d appreciate a microfiber cloth to wipe down the fully polished case occasionally. The Teufelsberg’s lume shines bright from the dots and hands, more than enough to be able to read the time in the dark without lighten up the whole room.

So, to wrap this review up, there’s a lot to like about the Teufelsberg, from the playful, Bauhaus inspired looks, the lovely blue details used on the dial, case and movement, the soft leather straps, the fact that the watch highlights an important place in Germany, holding a part of history that never must be forgotten. Another nice aspect of FineWatchesBerlin is that for every watch sold, they donate €50 directly to Hands With Hands, helping them build orphanages and schools in Nepal.

But, in my humble opinion, behind all the parts I like, there are a couple of things that concern me a bit. Being a watch that celebrates Berlin, inspired by brands like NOMOS and Junghans, I would love to see this “patriotism” all the way throughout the watch, not going for a Miyota movement and Chinese production. I’m not questioning the quality of the production or that the movement is a proven workhorse, it’s just that when you celebrate your hometown and make watches that are an homage to it, I would love to see “local” parts and producers. The other thing is the inevitable topic about value, the bang for the bucks. By asking €698, I fear that a chunk of the audience will be excluded. Those who don’t have a connection to Berlin or Germany might end looking at this watch as a Miyota-watch costing almost €700, which also is in a landscape where you’ll begin to find some serious competition.

All in all, the Teufelsberg is a very nice watch with some proper looks. Naming their watches after important locations, people and events is a nice way to honoring your hometown, bringing important historical events back into the light. I’m looking forward seeing what the duo behind FineWatchesBerlin will come up with next and I would love to see a “local” stunner.

Ciao!

Read more from Anders Tömä

Watchdig - Interview with FineWatchesBerlin

Thank you for joining me for this interview. You have a beautiful watch and I think people are going to enjoy this unique style of bauhaus design like I am.

1.What got you (both) get into watches?

W.: Thanks for inviting us, and glad you like our watches. My fascination with watches started when I became a jeweler. My professional occupation quickly turned into a personal passion. At the time, I was particularly interested in the young, bold, and less-established small brands.
In the 1990s, new brands such as Nomos, Jörg Schauer, Chronoswiss, Alain Silberstein, Jacques Etoulie and many other newcomers tried to find their place in the market. I was particularly impressed by their boldness, creativity, innovation, and enthusiasm. We were one of the first places in Berlin to stock almost all of these brands. It was through my contact with these courageous watchmakers that I first came upon the idea of designing my own watch. However, it never made it past the drawing board.
M.Ph.: I pretty much grew up with watches. My bedroom was directly above the jewelry shop, there was a wonderful small cuckoo clock hung on the wall… What do you expect?

2. How did Fine Watches Berlin come to fruition?

W.: Long story short, after some twisting moves in my personal and professional life during the last 30 years, in 2017 this almost forgotten idea showed up at the surface again,: What about having my own watch-brand!?!
At that time we just had sold another business and as an Aquarius you need something to work on…
So I had a look at my old drawings from 30 years ago, started with some research, bought many micro brand watches to check there quality, made some new drafts….and somehow it started to flow.

M.Ph: I was observing this process more from a distance at the beginning. Wondering what my dad is up to this time…
But after a while I was thinking: Wait, I am a professional marketier and his daughter, wouldn’t it be a good idea to jump on that train… Asking him, his response came immediately,: That’s what I am waiting for since a while!

3. As a daughter and father team – what talents do you each bring to FWB?

W. Mia-Phyllis is a professional marketer and well connected to the music and art scene. She brings a kind of freshness and new ideas into the company in addition to her professional skills.
I am more into the design and technical part. Having been an entrepreneur for more than 35 years I am taking care of the financial and operative side of our project.

4. What’s your vision for FWB for the future, what would you like to be known for?

W.: We would like FineWatchesBerlin to become a well-known watch-brand from Berlin with a small number of different mechanical watches, made out of passion. An ambassador for Berlin, German design and traditional entrepreneurship…

M.Ph.: FWB will be a brand for design lovers and people how are appreciate good quality and clean workmanship; love functionality. Who is very interested in the new and very open to innovative ideas. And also stick to what is tried and true…..

W.: Our aim is to create one or two new watches each year, maybe adding some extra dials to already existing models as well. Always looking for special details with the movements and design.
FWB will stay a niche product for a very special crowd.

5. There is a lot of noise in the watch industry right now with the influx of new micro-brands brands coming onto the market. How do you differentiate yourself from the rest?

W.: You are right, there is a lot going on these days around so-called micro-brands.

The main difference with us is, we are a privately owned family based company. Just wasting our own money… Taking the fully the risk of starting a new business. 
The kind of „normal way“ these days with starting a micro-brand is, showing up at Kickstarter with some nice pic of your prototype watch, collecting other peoples money and so on…Or finding an investor and do some spectacular gorilla marketing at Basel World…
And at the end, the backer gets what he paid for… another copy and paste Diver-watch.
Almost no risk, anyone can easily give it a try.
And there are many big Chinese watch manufacturer on the field, just pretending to be a micro-brand.

M.Ph.: For us, and especially for my dad, creating our own watch-brand is more like fulfilling a long existing dream. We spend a long time researching the right supplier chain, finding small manufactures how a willing and able to work to our expectations.
One of the hardest parts was to find someone how could make the changes at the movement as we requested.
As far as I know, we are almost the only company however refined/elaborated a movement from the Miyota 8… series. And the feedback shows that we did a very good job!

W.: As I mentioned earlier, we are not trying to make quick and easy money. We are working on building a serious long-lasting watch-brand with recognizable, stand-alone watches.
Certainly, you can not reinvent the wheel, but if you have an eye on the details, there is so much you can do…

M.Ph.: And overall I am happy that all these micro-brands are stirring up the traditional watch business routine.
The whole buzz around the micro-brand market makes it a lot easier to get recognized from customers.

6. What has been your biggest and proudest moment for FWB to date?

W.: There has been a few so far…You know if you start such a project almost every step feels somehow overwhelming. But one of the biggest moments was, holding the first prototype in my hands… Just this feeling that your idea has become a reality. From your mind on your desk into your hands, this is like: WOW !!!
Also getting all the positive reviews and feedback, not only from customers and specialized journalists.

M.PH.: There are so many story’s to tell already…. We have received some very supportive and positive feedback from highly ranked technicians and designers out of the German watch manufacture scene.
An engineer who works at a well-known watch company in Glashütte and even from a top-level designer at LEICA ( Cameras and Watches ).
Getting this kind of recognition and compliments, has made us really proud.

7. If you were to describe FWB in only 4 words what would it be?

W.: FRESH – STRIKING – BAUHAUS – TIMELESS – PURE – TIMELESS – STRIKING – MECHANICAL

M.Ph. : FROM – BERLIN – WITH – LOVE!

 

https://watchdig.org/reviews/fine-watches-berlin-teufelsberg-black-review/

watchdig : Fine Watches Berlin Teufelsberg Black Review

Fine Watches Berlin was the brainchild of the father-daughter tandem of Wilfried Liefer and Mia Phyllis Liefer. The company is fairly young as it was established only last 2017. Their watch designs reflect the places, events, and personalities that represent the city of Berlin. They specialize in developing Bauhaus-style watches which emphasizes simplicity and functionality. Their Teufelsberg collection is the first in line and definitely not the last they’ll be producing.
Check out the exclusive interview with Wilfred & Mia Liefer at the end of the review to get an insight of the father and daughter masterminds behind Fine Watches Berlin.

The Teufelsberg Black

The Teufelsberg Black is made of 316L stainless steel and measures 40.5mm wide and 11.4mm thick. It weighs only 75 grams, so you can wear it comfortably at all times.
The plain-colored dial is protected by a scratch-resistant sapphire crystal. A sapphire crystal is also installed on the caseback so you can clearly see the engraved rotor and the blue movement screws inside the watch.
The Teufelsberg Black comes with a handcrafted leather strap measuring 20mm wide. The strap has blue stitches on the edges for improved durability. An extra, brown leather strap is also included in the package upon purchase. You can easily switch the straps, thanks to the quick-release spring bars on the lugs.
You don’t have to worry about the watch getting wet accidentally because it’s water-resistant up to a depth of 50 meters. You can’t swim with it for prolonged periods, but it can handle water splashes and quick submersions. The Teufelsberg Black comes encased in a classic bamboo box that’s secured with a magnet closure.

Design and Movement

The word Teufelsberg translates to “devil’s mountain” which explains why the watch dial has a deep black color. It also presents a minimalist design similar to the Bauhaus style seen on brands like Nomos and Junghans. It has large Arabic numeral hour markers on the 3, 6, 9, and 12 o’clock positions but aside from these, all the other markers are represented by thin lines.
Between the 4 and 5 o’clock position, you can see the small seconds subdial with a running red hand. This enables you to clearly see that your watch is still working and you don’t have to wind it yet.
The Teufelsberg Black has luminescent hands and markers which you can clearly see in low-light conditions. The Teufelsberg Black runs on a 21-jewel, Miyota calibre 8218 automatic movement which makes 21,600 vibrations per hour.
If you like Dufa, Nomos, Junghans then the Fine Watches Berlin Teufelsberg is minimalist watch enthusiasts.
Its elegance and sophistication without punching a hold in your pocket. Those who are looking for a Bauhaus style watch from a German microbrand that not many know of should definitely add this to their collection.

 

Wearing Experience:

Fine Watches Berlin is the pearl in the rough of the bauhaus watch industry. They are little known to many, yet they illustrate the raw fundamental love of watches and the attention to detail that seems to be disappearing in this industry no thanks to Kickstarter and large corporations.
Fine Watches Berlin offers is a classy and sophisticated designed watch, offering a new flavor to the Bauhaus moniker with the Teufelsberg Black, pushing the boundaries of your traditional Bauhaus watches that offer eye candy details for the wearer to be content.
I absolutely adore the design and the small details on the dial and case back with extra points given for the packaging and extra leather straps. It makes a perfect everyday and casual formal wearer that is sure to draw the right attention.

Pros and Cons
Here are the advantages and disadvantages you can expect from the Teufelsberg model:

Pros
Quality leather straps
Attention to detail
It has luminescent hands and markers
Power reserve of up to 42 hours
Water resistant up to 50m
Cons
I think the branding like on the side of the case is not needed

Conclusion

The Teufelsberg Black is priced at $770 and for its quality, design, and durability, you can consider this German-made timepiece a good deal. You can wear it in business meetings and even on formal occasions and people will think you’re sporting a hard-to-find luxury watch. The fine finish and excellent craftsmanship displayed by the Teufelsberg will make anyone think that it’s way more expensive than it actually is.

Also see the Interview with FineWatchesBerlin.

https://watchdig.org/reviews/fine-watches-berlin-teufelsberg-black-review/

Albert Kaminsky - KAMINSKY BLOG -- Wrist Watch Reviews 

Let’s take a look at the watch as it is a stunner!

The watch we are gonna look at today is the Teufelsberg with black dial. The Teufelsberg comes in three variations: Black dial, White dial and Silver dial. But the one I like the most is what we have here in for a review. The name of the watch Teufelsberg (German for Devil’s Mountain) comes from a man-made hill in Berlin, Germany, in the Grunewald locality of former West Berlin. Very interesting name choice, but I like it. You can read about the history of that place here, it is a very interesting place with some history.

IMG_9946

The Teufelsberg comes in a very nice wooden box. Reminded me of the Vejrhoj packaging actually. The bo is nicely signed with FineWatchesBerlin logo. Inside the box, you will find your warranty card, spare strap in a different colour and of course the watch. Wilfried was very kind and put me a little present with the watch: a very nice FineWatchesBerlin keychain which is on my keys from the first day when I got one. It looks like I have a couple of watch company keychains for each of my key sets, haha. The first impressions were good. The case design actually reminded me of the Nomos Tangente, the Teufelsberg just has that Bauhaus design a little bit too. I also like what they did with the Miyota 8218 which has some interesting things changed on the looks, but about that later as no one has done it before. So let’s dive in.

IMG_9945

The case of the Teufelsberg is made of 316L stainless steel. The case is very well machined with nice and sharp lines. The case is finished in a high polish which is also done very well. The case is round with some and small, but long lugs. Overall the watch has really nice proportions. The diameter is 40mm, the thickness is 11mm and from lug to lug it measures at 49mm. The watch itself actually in real life looks a bit bigger than it is due to those long lugs, but it still wears like any other 40mm watch. I actually like when companies do watches in smaller sizes like 38-40mm. I always liked bigger watches as I have big wrists, but in recent years I have fallen in love with smaller sized watches as they look better and are more wearable. On the right side of the case we have a push-pull crown which has the FineWatchesBerlin logo in colour. The crown is very easy to operate as it is in just the right size, not too big or small. On the left side of the case, we have the FineWatchesBerlin name engraved, in my opinion, it is a bit of an overkill with the branding and that is probably the only thing I maybe dislike about the watch. Where we have the lugs we have some decorative blued screws so it looks like the strap is held in place with screws, but in reality, straps are held in place with spring bars, but nonetheless, I like that blue accent, looks cool! I also like how thin is the bezel line so the dial looks bigger and you can read time more easily! The exhibition case back is another great touch to display the customized Miyota movement. The case back is held by 6 small screws which is a German thing in watchmaking, they all seem to use screws and not more or less than 6! The crystal in the case back is a flat sapphire just like on the front. The watch is water resistant to 50M (5ATM) which is more than you need for a dressy watch like this! But I advise you not to swim with it as it isn’t designed for that!

         IMG_9953
IMG_9950
IMG_9948
IMG_9951
The dial on the Teufelsberg is very simple in my opinion and I like it. In my opinion, the watch needs to be functional as it’s main thing is to tell time, but FineBerlinWatches also made it so it looks good and also functional! The dial is matte black with applied hour indices and a nice FWB logo which actually is very well designed, saying it as a graphic designer myself! Around the dial, we have a very subtle blue line with a white printed minute track. For each hour we have a lume dot so you can read the time also in the darker hours. Between 4 and 5 o’clock, we have a small seconds subdial in white with red seconds hand which gives a nice detail to the dial and a little depth to it too. The stick hour and minute hands with sharp ends have polished finishing with some lume applied in the middle. The lume isn’t the strongest one but works fine for 3-4 hours which is more than enough. The dial overall is pretty well designed and very legible in the day just as in the dark.
IMG_9954

 

Now we come to the most interesting part of this watch in my opinion as nobody, in my opinion, has ever done it to these movements. So inside the Teufelsberg sits a Miyota 8218. A very reliable and robust movement that works pretty great. It is an automatic movement with 42 hours power reserve, has 21 jewels and beats at 21,600 bph and it has decent Geneva line finishing on the top of the movement. Nothing out of a usual right? So what’s so special about the movement you would ask? Well, Wilfried went an extra step with this, they changed all the visible screws with an actual real blued screws. He told me that it took him more than 2 months to find a fitting supplier and who could manage that. I only could imagine how much this costs. And on top of that, he put a customized skeletonized rotor with gold colour engraving “From Berlin With Love” which is a really cool touch! An I definitely think it was all worth it as the movement looks a million times better than seeing a regular Miyota in there.

With the Teufelsberg you get two straps. Mine watch came on a black strap with nice blue stitching matching the accents on the watch. and also it came with the same style strap but in brown leather and with the same blue stitching. All the straps are signed with the FWB logo on the top and underside. The leather is really nice to touch and the straps are very supple so the watch will sit on the wrist nicely right out of the box. The underside of the straps is lined with this beige soft material so it doesn’t irritate your wrists. I also have to mention that all the straps are handmade. The tang style buckles are made of stainless steel and have matching polished finishing. Also, the buckles are signed with the round FWB logo which another nice touch. And the last thing that I have to mention is the built-in quick release spring bars! I just love when companies put them in the straps as it makes the strap change super easy and you don’t risk scratching your watch with the spring bar removal tool.

IMG_9956

IMG_9955

IMG_9964
IMG_9967

Overall the watch is great! I have been wearing it for the past month more times than any other watch I have for the test. I have taken it to my watch meets and the guys there with Rolexes, Pateks, Hublots etc. in their collection were asking me about this watch and especially admiring the blued screws and rotor on the movement. Of course, for a great watch you need to pay money and this one doesn’t come as cheap as you’ve maybe expected it to be, the watch costs 698€ which a lot for the specifications, but you must understand that the company is independent and it takes a lot of work to come to this point. Also for that price, I think you get a very unique and very well made watch. Look at it, you get a nice and legible dial, sapphire crystal on front and back, automatic Japan-made movement with some custom work with those blued screws and rotor, two very nice handmade leather straps and overall a good looking German designed watch! Do I recommend it? ….Yes!

INTERVIEW, Albert Kaminsky talking to FWB

KAMINSKY BLOG Wrist Watch Reviews - Interview with Mia-Phyllis and Wilfried Liefer

Mia-Phyllis and Wilfried at there studio

Introduce yourself?

Mia-Phyllis Liefer, 32, and Wilfried Liefer, 62, daughter and father. Mia-Phyllis is a marketing and communications specialist and musician. She is curious and open-minded. Wilfried is a businessman always interested in trying something new. He is planning-focussed and visionary. The two have been business partners since 2018.

When and how did you become fascinated with watches?

Wilfried: The first watch that I can consciously remember was my father’s, a hand-wound watch with a black leather strap and a silver dial. That was in the early 1960s. My real fascination with watches started when I became a jeweller. My professional occupation quickly turned into a personal passion. At the time, I was particularly interested in the young, bold, and less-established small brands.

In the 1990s, new brands such as Nomos, Jörg Schauer, Chronoswiss, Alain Silberstein, Jacques Etoulie and many other newcomers tried to find their place in the market. I was particularly impressed by their boldness, creativity, innovation and enthusiasm. We were one of the first places in Berlin to stock almost all of these brands. It was through my contact with these courageous watchmakers that I first came upon the idea of designing my own watch. However, it never made it past the drawing board.

Mia-Phyllis: I pretty much grew up with watches. My bedroom was directly above the jewellery shop, there was a wonderful small cuckoo clock hung on the wall… What do you expect?

What makes a good watch?

M-P: It’s hard to say. What makes a poignant novel, a delicious meal, a moving film, or an aromatic cup of coffee? So many details must come together and harmonise with each other to become a distinct and special entity.

W: But what is most important is that a watch is not boring, unimaginative or run-of-the-mill. It should grab my attention through lovingly-crafted details and a recognizable key concept. Its appearance should be completely cohesive and it must have an independent identity. For me, just as in art, music and architecture, there isn’t simply one good style when it comes to watches.
A baroque painting can impress me as much as a Kandinsky, and a harmonious piece of traditional music can move me just as deeply as a Leonard Cohen ballad… just as a Jörg Schauer Quarada sits next to a Minerva Cal 48 and an Omega Art in my watch collection.

M-P: What I really don’t appreciate are these unimaginative mimics of Rolex Divers, Max Bills, Nomos, and the like. Design is not merely a matter of copy and paste.Nothing could be more dull.
Of course, the materials and components must be high quality. Haptics are also important to me: to be able to feel the harmony between weight and build quality in my hand.

W:  Exactly. When I hold it in my hand and look at it, this feeling of warmth, joy and satisfaction should be noticeable – a feeling of “Yes, I still like this!” The subtleties of the watch, including its feeling and the interaction of its components, should interest and please me even after I’ve become accustomed to looking at it.

Which watches do you own privately? Could you tell an interesting story about one of these watches?

W: There’s quite a few… from a small collection of old hand-wound watches from the 1950s and 1960s, to a couple of the first electromechanic models predating the quartz mechanism, to modern automatic watches like those by Jörg Schauer, Minerva, Jacques Etoile, Nomos, Alain Silberstein, Tag Heuer, Omega, to a beautiful old Rolex. I also have some from Bruno Söhnle and even a Dugena, as well as a box full of Swatches of all kinds, of course…

 

A look at Wilfried watch collection

M-P: Well, there’s the confirmation watch made of precious metals from my grandparents and a couple of Swatches from my youth. I currently like to wear my Sinn Automatik or one of the FineWatchesBerlin prototypes, which are real examples of craftsmanship and are truly unique.

W: My first Chronoswiss comes to mind – a Christmas gift in the late 1980s. A tiny watch by today’s standards, 34mm in diameter, with a manual winding movement and complete calendar, although back then that was very much a common size for a men’s watch. At the time, Chronoswiss still used old refurbished mechanisms. Apart from the onion crown, it in no way resembles the Regulateur Series that would go on to be so successful. A certain Mr Miller was responsible for distribution, and the whole collection fit into a small briefcase. His main source of income was the sale of wonderful Sattler wall clocks. A very nice reminder of an exciting time.

Who is your ideal customer?

W: I think our customers have broad interests, a good, steady income, are reasonably well-educated and predominantly male. Our customers have well-structured lives and love clarity of form but also appreciate precise details. They don’t feel like they have to distinguish themselves through swanky appearances or brands. They appreciate good quality and clean workmanship; they love functionality. They are very interested in the new and very open to innovative ideas. When they are passionate about something, they can become almost evangelical about it. They stick to what is tried and true. They are very loyal, and interested in technology as well as art, music and culture. They don’t feel the need to prove themselves, instead preferring understatement. They are perhaps somewhat elitist. They stay within their limits, but exist outside the mainstream. They are less interested in the opinion of the majority, instead seeking the approval and recognition of their peers. Our customers have a high level of self-awareness and self-confidence, are goal-oriented and focused.

M-P: Our customers are of all ages. Our first customers were in their mid-twenties, late fifties, and early sixties. Our graphic designer’s son is 13 and he is totally fascinated by our watches, even wearing one himself, while my father’s godson is 16 and posts photos of our watches together with his newest sneakers on Facebook and Instagram.

 

What are you interested in besides the watch business?

W: That is a broad field… I am very sporty, and enjoy running, cycling, and weight training. I’m passionate about music, no matter the genre, as long as it grabs me. I like to read, and recently I’ve also got into gardening. I spend a lot of time with my wife, and together we also give couples workshops. Both of my granddaughters open my heart… and once a week I teach a yoga class for men. I’ve been practicing yoga myself for years. I don’t experience strict separation between my working life and other interests- they merge with and inform

M-P: It’s the same for me as well – there’s a fluidity between my work and my private interests. I also teach yoga once a week, and have been practicing it for a while too. A couple of years ago, I set up a cultural association with some friends, which I am very active in, both musically and with my sewing machine, as well as in all organizational matters.

Where do you find inspiration for your work?

M-P: Stimulation and ideas can be found almost anywhere, as long as you remain open and interested. ‘Through my various artistic activities, I am in contact with many exceptionally creative people.’In the rooms of KreativMolkereiSpandau I am surrounded by all sorts of musicians, illustrators, painters, sculptors and fashion designers every day. Through my work in a large jewellery business, I am in contact with consumers as well as with many watch and jewellery manufacturers.

W: I have long been active in the watch and jewellery industries, including as a goldsmith designing and crafting my own jewellery line, and this connection has never been broken. I am very active online and observe what the newcomers, microbrands, and design-oriented brands are doing. This means I’m very up to date. I am also always inspired by my engagement with the Bauhaus and their products. In general, I am fascinated by all kinds of form and design. A well-designed motorbike or bicycle excites me just as much as a beautiful lamp or “tiny house”. My eyes are always attracted to high quality design.

M-P: Exactly – whether in the cinema, on Netflix, in nature or in museums, inspiration exists everywhere.

 

 

                                             Wilfried and Mia-Phyllis in front of there studio

Where do you see your brand in future?

W: In the first couple of years it is important to establish ourselves in the marketplace. We will continue to take care of our key customers and then see what other areas we would like to expand into.

M-P: We will not and do not want to become a big player or mass brand. Our focus is to create beautiful watches for design lovers, and it will stay that way.

W: My feeling is that the brand will grow organically from within. What I mean by that is that our “ideal customer” will slowly but surely help promote brand awareness in their personal, professional and cultural lives. From the beginning, we have noticed that people who like our concept and products are very willing to independently engage themselves on the brand’s behalf.

Do you have new watch designs in the pipeline?

W: The planning process for a number of new models is actually complete. Our next move will be to produce one or two new dial variants for the TEUFELSBERG range, and perhaps also a more exclusive version, depending on how sales progress.

M-P: Our basic idea is to expand on the TEUFELSBERG line as our main collection and create additional independent product lines. We would like to develop a watch with a slightly smaller diameter and perhaps also a  small women’s or unisex watch.

W: We are also toying with the idea of special models with limited or numbered editions. But our initial focus is on establishing FWB on the market.

What was most difficult thing for you when first building your watch brand?

W: Personally, the challenge began with making our product known in the marketplace. Prior to that – although there were still a lot of challenges – almost everything was more fluid, with one thing following on from another… But the moment our watches arrived at our distribution center – it became suddenly clear that there was no going back! The watches had become a reality.

M-P: Yeah, you’re right – it is a real challenge to position a new brand on the market. Although it is also obviously the dream of everyone in marketing to be there from the beginning, when a new brand emerges – especially if you were involved in the development of the product. It’s also important not to forget that it really is my own baby. I also think that we did a lot of good preparation work, and the response from customers, the press and industry experts has been very encouraging.

What would you suggest to someone thinking of bringing their own watch brand onto the market?

W: It always depends on what your intentions are with the brand. It is essential to take your time to develop the overall concept, and to establish a financial and temporal buffer to make this possible. You also have to be prepared to throw everything out and start again.

M-P: My view is that it is essential to secure support and assistance from experts for every step along the way. Sometimes you can get a bit carried away in your own head, and so feedback from industry experts is really important. At the same time, you also have to be careful who you consult with, because experts also pursue their own interests.

W: Along with good planning, I also think that it is essential to listen to your gut. Your plans and ideas can only be so good on their own – if it doesn’t feel good, it will be tough.

Thank's and all the best.

 

Read more from Albert Kaminsky