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    THXPALM - to Japan with love

    洗練されたバウハウス腕時計を、ベルリンより愛を込めて…父娘で創設したブランドFineWatchesBerlin(1万円以上お得になる読者限定割引コードつき)

    日付: 3/18/2020

    FineWatchesBerlinとは?

     

    ドイツFineWatchesBerlinは2017年創立の家族経営の腕時計ブランドだ。

    1957年に生まれたWilfried Liefer氏と、1987年生まれの彼の娘、Mia Phyllis Liefer氏の父娘で造り上げたブランドという。

    今から40年前、当時20代だったWilfried氏はもともと金細工師であった。その当時からデザイン、宝石、腕時計、インテリア、建築、と様々なジャンルに関わりを持っていた氏だが、Watch Digのインタビューによれば今から30年前から腕時計ブランドを作ることを夢に抱いていた。その夢はしばらく忘れ去られていたものの、2017年にまた自らの腕時計ブランドを作る夢に火が点いた。(また、10代後半の時には建築現場で熱管理士として働いていた経歴、そしてその後に金や銀などの(貴)金属関連の仕事をしていたことで培った知識は腕時計を作るにも役立ったそうだ。)

    Mia Phyllis氏は元々プロのマーケターで、音楽やアートシーンにも造詣が深い人物。(同じくWatch Digによれば)彼女は始めのうちは父が今度は何を始めたのかと遠巻きに見ていたようだが、マーケティングのプロだし彼の娘だし、一緒になってやるのは良いアイデアかも。と思い立ち、Wilfried氏に参加について尋ねたところ「そう言ってくれるのを待ちわびていたんだよ!」ということで参加に至ったという。

    デザインと技術面をWilfried氏、マーケティングとフレッシュなアイデアをMia Phyllis氏。父と娘がそれぞれの専門性を活かして生み出されたのがFineWatchesBerlinなのだ。

    なお、ブランド名のFineWatchesBerlinは、略すとFWB。文字や単語を並べ遊ぶうちにこれを思いついたそう。Wilfried氏本人の言葉を借りれば「IWC , BWC, .....FWB !」とのこと。なるほど。

    そしてブランド名には故郷のベルリンという名称、そしてブランドが作る腕時計のスタイルを示す要素を取り入れたかったとのこと。もしダイバーズウォッチやスポーツウォッチを作るブランドだったら「SportsWatchesBerlin」と名付けていたことだろう。とのこと。その代わりにブランドの名称となったのが、「ベルリン」と「洗練された腕時計」を組み合わせた「FineWatchesBerlin」というわけだ。

    ベルリンの歴史を冠したトイフェルスベルク・コレクション

     

    image by Axel Mauruszat

    故郷への愛はブランド名だけでなくコレクション名にも現れている。今回レビューするモデルは、FineWatchesBerlinのファーストコレクションでもある、「TEUFELSBERG」(トイフェルスベルク)コレクションからのもの。

    トイフェルスベルクはベルリンに存在する標高120mの人工の山で、「悪魔の(Teufels)山(Berg)」という意味。第二次世界大戦で生じたベルリンの瓦礫が運ばれ20年かけて生まれた山でもある。なんだか不吉な名称であるが、Wikipediaによればこの名称は近辺に「悪魔の湖/Teufelssee」という場所があることから名付けられたそう。

    こちらは発送用の箱に入っていたポストカード。「DANKE」(ありがとう)の言葉と共にトイフェルスベルクの写真が印刷されている。森の中にドーム状の建築物が複数見えるこれは、トイフェスベルグの元アメリカ国家安全保障局リスニングステーション(電波を傍受して諜報活動などに利用するための施設)。建てられた当時はソ連、東ドイツ、ワルシャワ条約機構の動向を知るために今は廃墟となっており、中にはグラフィティが多く描かれているほか、ガイドツアーなどもあるようだ。

    ベルリンの特別な場所や人、出来事の名前、しかし今も多くの人々に知られるものではなく、人々の記憶から薄れつつあるそれらをコレクション名にしていくというFineWatchesBerlin。ブランドにとって、そして創設者のWilfried氏にとって、このファーストコレクションの名前となったトイフェスベルグは、その名前とは裏腹に、温かい記憶に満ちた特別な場所だ。

    1985年からベルリンに住みだしたWilfried氏にとってはトイフェスベルグはただ歴史が眠る場所以上の存在であったようだ。マウンテンバイクをしたり、マラソンのトレーニングをしたり。今でも一人で、また娘と共にトイフェスベルグで長い散歩を楽しむ。Wilfried氏にとってスポーツとリラクゼーションの場所であり、お孫さんたちにとってもお気に入りの場所でもあるトイフェスベルグは、「ベルリンの全てが見渡せる最も素晴らしい景色」が楽しめる場所だそうだ。

    トイフェスベルグから眺めるベルリンの景色。 image by Denis Apel - CC BY-SA 2.0 de

    今度ベルリンに行ったら訪れてみたいところだ。

    そんなTEUFELSBERGコレクションは、バウハウス・ムーブメントからの影響を強く受け、機能主義的な美の宿る腕時計となっている。なおWilfried氏は当ブログに、JÖRG SCHAUER(*)、アラン・シルベスタイン、ノモス、XEMEX(**)、モンディーンなどのブランドからもインスパイアされたも語ってくれた。早速どんな腕時計なのか開封してみよう。
    *STOWAのオーナー兼デザイナー
    **スイスの腕時計ブランド

    しかしTEUFELSBERGでは、ケース天面と風防天面との間に溝があるかのように一旦「風防縁の傾斜」の分だけ下がってから風防が突出する。(強いて言えば回転式ベゼルを持つ腕時計、例えばセイコーのSKX009とか007とかの風防とベゼルの関係に似る。)

    このため、(僅かながら風防の方がケースよりも高いものの)風防がケースから出っ張る感じはしない。ケースに注意を向ければ、ラグの付け根上部あたりに溝が走ると共に、ラグの下部は非常に僅かにだが一段下がっている。これは竜頭へのアクセスを容易にする意味もあるだろう。そこから更に一段下がって裏蓋がついている。

    ラグの天面は僅かに傾斜していて、各角は面取りしてある。またラグの底面の傾斜は、天面の傾斜とは僅かに異なる。ラグの外側には青色のねじがあるのも判るだろう。

    こちらのアングルから見ると(写真では判りづらいが)ラグの付け根部分は溝に平行であるが、そこから手前に伸びる両ラグの天面が「八」の字状に僅かな傾斜を帯びていることも判る。

    竜頭頭頂は「蛇の目」にも似た青地に白丸。少し中心がずれているのはご愛敬。このモデルはこの青い色/紺色がキーカラーとなっており、この方向から見ると、ラグ横の青ネジと共にリズムよくキーカラーが繰り返される。

    この蛇の目はぷっくりと飛び出しているが、これはレジンによるもの。

    側面はクルー・ド・パリ(Clous de Paris)風の凹凸がある。滑り止めとしての機能を果たしている他、各傾斜部が光を反射し、意匠としての機能も持つ。

    特にケース全面が艶出し仕上げであること、そして竜頭サイズがケース径と比較して小ぶりであることもあり、この竜頭とその凹凸が作り出すテクスチャは時計全体から見ると良いアクセントになっている。

    竜頭の反対側には「FineWatchesBerlin by W.Liefer」の刻印。

    ケース裏面はネジ止め式で、エキシビションバックとなっている。表の風防はサファイアクリスタル製でも、裏はミネラルクリスタルで済ます有名ブランドも少なくないが、FineWatchesBerlinは裏面も手抜き無くサファイアクリスタル製だ。

    ムーブメントでテンプの上に来る赤いルビーのパラショック受け石と、ケース裏蓋でその丁度外側に来る蛇の目の刻印、更に言えばローターの青ネジも同直線状にあり、これらがパターンの連続性を産んでいる。

    ローターはオリジナルの中抜きローターが用いられており、中央付近にブランドイニシャルの「FWB」、そしてローター外側部分には「From Berlin With Love」(ベルリンより愛を込めて)の文字が金色で刻印されている。

    ムーブメントは信頼性のおけるムーブメントとして知られるMiyota 8218。自動巻き+手巻きで、ハック機構はなし。Caliber Cornerによれば21,600 bph、21石で、パワーリザーブは42時間。Miyotaのムーブメントは自動巻き音は他社のものと比べて大きめの印象を受けるが、これもまたローターの動きは大きめ。

    なお、KAMINSKY BLOGのレビューによれば、ムーブメント裏面の青ネジはすべてわざわざFineWatchesBerlinオリジナルで取り付けているものだという。インデックスの青色とも、青い蛇の目とも共鳴する要素として重要な意味を持つだろう。なおWilfried氏によれば、このワークホースムーブメントにここまでの変更を加えるのはFineWatchesBerlinを含めても世界に2社しかないという。


    文字盤

    各時部分はアプライドインデックスとなっており、そのさらに外周部分には蓄光の点がある。

    各時インデックスバー状で、12,3,6,9はアラビア数字。数字は縦長のサンセリフフォントとなっておりエレガントだ。なお12のインデックスのみ他の数字よりも大きい。

    蓄光点はぽつんと文字盤から突き出し、各時に一つ、12時部分には二つあり、暗所での識字を可能にしている。蓄光材の間には各分のインデックスが黒く短い線で記してある。

     

     

     

    蓄光させるとこんな感じ。

    時分針はぱっと見バー状だが、よく見ると先端部分は尖っているため、ペンシル針と言った方が適切だろうか。針の内部は蓄光。

    4時と5時の間あたりは一段窪みがあり、スモールセカンドが位置する。スモールセカンドのインデックスもメインのインデックスと対応するように、上下左右の4箇所(15,30,45,60)が同フォントのアラビア数字、他の8箇所はバーインデックスとなっている。

    スモールセカンド部分のインデックスは、黒い線とフォント。ぱっと見判りづらいが、外周と内周の円は実は青い。ここにも竜頭と共通するパターンがあるのだ。

    スモールセカンド針は赤色。パターンの連続性、色の統一性のあるなかに、差し色として機能している。

    (ケースを裏返して裏のムーブメントを覗くと、赤いルビーのパラショック受け石が丁度スモールセカンドに対応する位置に来るのも面白いところだ)。

    スモールセカンドの窪んだ部分は特筆することのない白色だが、文字盤の大部分はエナメル・ホワイトとなっている。これはエナメルのような透明感と仄かな青みが感じられる色で、美しい。

    スモールセカンドの窪みの縁ではエナメル風の光沢が見える。

    12時下には立体的に銀に輝く「FWB」のイニシャルロゴ。個人的にはこの文字盤にこのロゴは似合わないと感じる。この腕時計の他の部分のデザインと異なり、「F」、「W」、「B」それぞれの文字にはそれを纏め上げるルールがなく、重なり合い方もいびつであれば傾斜角も異なる。

    9時インデックスの右にはよりバランスのとれた「FineWatchesBerlin by W.Liefer」。ブランド名部分はやはり銀色で立体的。かなり細かい文字だがくっきりしている。

    最外周には青い円があり、盤面を引き締めている。この円は6時あたりで途切れ、「DESIGNED IN GERMANY」とドイツでデザインされた旨が記されている。


    ストラップ

     

    ストラップはブラウンのものが付けられているが、化粧箱の中にはブラックのものも入っている。幅は20mm。

    表面は艶があり僅かにシボのあるテクスチャ―。

    キーカラーの紺色でストラップの左右の端が縫われている。

    クイックリリース式であるため付け替えは容易だ。

    表面は、どちらも時計部に近い側の片方に蛇の目、もう片面にFWBの刻印がなされている。

    手首に触れる裏面は肌触りの良いヌバック。「FineWatchesBerlin by W. Lieger」
    「ECHETES LEDER」(リアルレザー)、「handgearbeitet」(ハンドメイド)の刻印。個人的にはこの部分が(ありきたりな)英語ではなく、ドイツ語で記してあるというのも好きなポイントだ。

    側面のコバ塗りも紺色となっている。

    バックルも時計ケース部と同じく艶出し仕上げ。ここには表面端に蛇の目の刻印がありおしゃれ。

    16~17cmの手首径の私では、小さい方から2番目のストラップ穴で丁度よいサイズだった。

    黒いストラップではこんな感じ。


    まとめ

     

    父と娘により創設された家族経営のブランドであるというストーリー性も魅力なFineWatchesBerlinだが、肝心の腕時計も上手くデザインされている。Wilfried氏が「常にバウハウス的な、クリアなスタイルにフォーカスしてきた」と語るように、文字盤は明快。40.5mmのケースに目一杯広がったシンプルな文字盤の識時性はとても高く、腕時計としての機能性もまた高いと言えよう。

    装飾性はなるべく省いた中にも、「白と青」という色彩要素、そして「蛇の目」の要素を繰り返し用いることで、反復の愉しさもある。

    バウハウスからのインスピレーションもあるこの腕時計の造形美、シンプルな形状の中に宿る美は、ストラップを取り除くことで(ストラップを取り除くと「腕」時計としての機能性が失われるが)より堪能できるだろう。

    購入はFineWatchesBerlin公式ウェブサイトから通常価格は698ユーロ、記事執筆時レートで約8万3000円…のところ、今回は特別に当ブログの読者限定、太っ腹に98ユーロ(約1万1700円)も割引してくれるクーポンコードを提供戴いている。コードは:

    Thanks to thxpalm

     

    Mike Stuffler @ Watchuseek, Interview with Mia-Phyllis and Wilfried

    Designing and launching his own watch - that's what Wilfried Liefer dreamed about for 30 years. Now he has fulfilled the dream together with his lovely daughter Mia-Phyllis. At the age of 60, Liefer founded "FineWatchesBerlin" as a start-up based in Berlin-Spandau.

    It took many months of planning, drawings and research until Mia and Wilfried were able to hold the first prototypes of their unisex watches in their hands. 14 months, says Liefer, have passed from his first draft(s) to the finished watch. "I drew all of the designs by hand," says the Berliner.

    And finally, he told his daughter about the idea of launching a watch brand of his own. She was thrilled and offered to take over the marketing - after all, she completed an apprenticeship in communication and marketing. "It's super exciting for me," she said. "Bringing a new brand onto the market is the dream of everyone who is into watches".

    The first models were launched already 2018 but it took some time until I became aware of FineWatchesBerlin. On WatchUSeek I introduced you to FineWatchesBerlin about 5 month ago (February 2020).

    Since then I have met with Mia and Wilfried for several times, on the occasion of the „Aurochronos Festival" in Lodz / Poland, a very interesting watch event for independent watch brands, and the „Watchtime Düsseldorf" and of course occasionally in Spandau.

    After Berlin loosened the Covid-19 lockdown more and more, the idea arose to invite Mia and Wilfried Liefer to an interview. Just to get an idea of how crazy you actually have to be to launch your own watch brand.
    Both were immediately enthusiastic about the idea and agreed. And so this interview took place last Tuesday in the beer garden of the „Spandau Brewery". Excellent beer and local food contributed to a fun evening. We talked about all sorts of things, here we only publish the part that was related to FineWatchesBerlin, everything else remains our secret.

     

    The interview

    StufflerMike: Who are you, can you please briefly introduce yourself too our members ??

    Wilfried: We are Mia-Phyllis and Wilfried Liefer, daughter and father, 32 and 62 years old. Mia-Phyllis is a specialist in marketing and communication, a musician, curious, cosmopolitan.

    Mia-Phyllis: My father, Wilfried, is an interested entrepreneur, always trying something new, planning and visionary. We are business partners since 2018.

    StufflerMike: When and how did your fascination with watches begin?

    Wilfried: The first watch that I remember consciously was my father's wristwatch. A hand-wound watch with a black leather strap and silver dial. That was in the early 1960s. My real fascination for watches started some time later when I started working as a jeweler.

    The job soon turned into personal enthusiasm. At that time, I was particularly interested in small brands, today you would say I was interested in Micro brands / Independent brands. In the early 1990s, new brands such as Nomos, Jörg Schauer, Chronoswiss, Alain Silberstein, Jacques Etoile and many other newcomers tried to find their place on the market. At those times I was really impressed by their courage, their creativity and the striking enthusiasm.

    In Berlin we were one of the first sales points for almost every one of these brands.

    StufflerMike (interrupts): Yeah, I know. Two years ago I bought my Schauer Day Date there. The watch slept in the vault for a few years.

    Wilfried (continues): Through contact with those enthusiastic watchmakers, the idea of designing my own watch came up for the first time. At that time, however, it did not go beyond a few drawings.

    Mia-Phyllis: Actually, I practically grew up with clocks because my children's room was directly above the family's jewelry store. There was a beautiful little cuckoo clock on the wall. What can you expect other than yes, of coures.

    StufflerMike: What do you think. What are the features a good watch should have?

    Mia-Phyllis: That is not easy to answer.. What makes a touching novel, a tasty meal, an affecting movie, an aromatic cup of coffee? So many details have to come together, harmonize with each other, become one, so that something special can be created.

    Wilfried: Above all, however, a watch shouldn't be boring, uninspired, „08/15" (plain vanilla). It should catch my attention through details showing the passion the watch has been made with, a visible and recognizable basic idea. The appearance should absolutely be coherent and it must have an individualiy, a self-image, an identiy. As in art, music and architecture, there is no such thing as a "good style" for watches. A baroque painting can impress me just as much as a Kandinsky, a harmonious piece of folk music touches me as deeply as a ballad by Leonard Cohen. Just like a Jörg Schauer Quarada is in my collection next to a Minerva Cal 48 and an Omega Art.

    Mia-Phyllis: What I don't like are these almost ubiquitous Rolex Submariner- , Max Bill-, Nomos-look-a-likes - copy-and-paste, there is nothing more boring.
    Of course, the quality of the materials used must be matching and top. It is also important to me to feel the haptic, to feel a harmony of weight and processing quality in my hand. A good watch should encourage me to take the time to look at it over and over again.

    Wilfried: Exactly, when I have a watch in my hands and I look at it, this feeling of warmth, joy and satisfaction should be felt. This: Yes, I still like that! Even after looking at it several times, the subtleties and the interaction of the components should still arouse my interest.

    Watch Analog watch Watch accessory Clock Fashion accessory

    StufflerMike: Which watches do you own privately? Can you tell an interesting story about one of these watches?

    Wilfried: There are quite a few: Starting with a small collection of old manual winding watches from the 1950s and 1960s, and a few early electromechanical models from the time before quartz movements came up, to modern automatic watches such as Jörg Schauer, Minerva, Jacques Etoile, Nomos, Alain Silberstein, Tag Heuer, Omega or a beautiful old Rolex. There is also something from Bruno Söhnle and even a Dugena. And of course a box full of Swatch watches.

    Mia-Phyllis: Well, there is the confirmation watch made out of precious metal, a gift of my grandparents and some Swatch watches from my youth. At the moment I like to wear my Sinn or one of the FineWatchesBerlin watches. Most of the time the watch I want to wear is already on my father's wrist. That's how it is when father and daughter work together.

    Wilfried: I remember my first Chronoswiss. A Christmas present in the late 1980s. A tiny watch by today's standards, 34 mm in diameter, manual wind movement with full calendar. At that time it was still a common size for a men's watch. At those times Chronoswiss fitted their watches with revised NOS movements. Except for the onion crown, nothing reminds you of the later successful Régulateur series. Thesales representant those days was Mr. Müller, a small briefcase was enough for the entire collection,Mr. Müller's main source of income was the sale of beautiful Erwin Sattler wall clocks. A very nice memory of an exciting time.

    Watch Clock Fashion accessory Material property Font

     

     

     

    StufflerMike: What does your customers look like?

    Wilfried: I think our customer is interested in many things. He has a good, regular income and a middle to high school education. To a large extent male. He is well structured, loves clear forms, clarity, but at the same time he likes successful details. It does not need to distinguish itself through flashy appearances or brand presentation. Emphasizes good quality and clean workmanship. Loves functionality. Has great interest in the new, is very open to innovative ideas. If something inspires him, he goes for it, can be almost missionary. He likes to hold on to the tried and tested for a long time. He is very loyal, interested in technology, interested in art, music, culture. Doesn't have to prove itself loudly, works more with understatement. Sometimes a bit elitist. Deliberately but subtly differentiates itself from the mainstream. The opinion of the many is not so important to him, he is looking for confirmation and recognition of the same. Rather has a higher self-confidence / self-image, is goal-oriented and focused ...

    Mia-Phyillis .: Imho there's no age limit. Our first buyers were in their mid-twenties, late fifties and seventies. The son of our graphic designer is 13 years old and completely enthusiastic about the watches, he now wears one himself. And my godson's godson is 16 years old and posts photos on Facebook and Instagram of our watches along with his latest sneakers.

    Watch Watch accessory Analog watch Fashion accessory Number

    What are your interests besides the watch business?

    Wilfried: This is a wide field. I am very active in sports: running, cycling, weight training ... I have always loved music, no matter which direction, it just has to grab me. Read. Recently a garden. I spend a lot of time with my wife, together with her I also give workshops for couples. My two granddaughters open my heart. Once a week I also teach yoga for men, I have been practicing daily myself for many years. And there is not really a separation between my professional activities and my other interests, it all flows together.

    Mia-Phyllis: I can only agree: it is a smooth transition between work and private interests. And I also teach yoga once a week and have been practicing for a while. A few years ago I founded a cultural association with some friends in which I am very active: both musically and on the sewing machine and in all organizational matters.

    StufflerMike: Where do you find inspiration for your work?

    Mia-Phyllis: Suggestions and ideas can be found almost everywhere, as long as you remain open and interested. Keep your eyes open. Through my artistic work I am in contact with a lot of creative artists. In the rooms of the „KreativMolkereiSpandau" I am surrounded daily by musicians of different styles, draftsmen, painters, sculptors and fashion designers. In addition, through my work in a large jewelry store, I have contact both with the customer and with many watch and jewelry manufacturers.

    Wilfried. Since I was also active in the watch and jewelry industry for a long time and also designed and manufactured my own jewelry series as a goldsmith, this connection never broke. That means I'm pretty up to date. Above all, I browse a lot and see what the kickstarters, microbrands and design-oriented brands are doing. I always get inspiration from working with the Bauhaus and its products. In general, form and design fascinate me in every form. A good looking motorcycle or bicycle inspires me just as much as a beautiful lamp or a tiny house. Somehow, well-designed things just attract my eye.

    Mia-Phyllis: Yes, whether cinema, Netflix or in nature and in the museum - there are suggestions everywhere.

    StufflerMike: Where do you see your brand in , say a couple of years?

    Wilfried: In the first two years, it was important that we establish ourselves on the market. We will look after our regular customers intensively and then gradually look into the areas in which we would like to expand. We are trying to stay in contact with our customers on a regular basis.
    Last year we showcased our watches on special watch events like „Aurochronos" in Poland, „Watchtime Düsseldorf" and other more locally related events. However, Covid-19 has caused significant restrictions this year. I think in 10 years we will still be a small but fine brand for a special design audience.

    Mia-Phyllis: We will not and do not want to become a big player or a high-volume brand. Our focus is and remains to create beautiful watches for design lovers. Sometimes less is more.

    Wilfried : I think, I hope, that the brand will grow from within. What I think is that our "ideal customer" will slowly but steadily develop a brand awareness in his private, professional, cultural environment. Right from the start, we had the experience that people who like our concept and our product are willing to do a lot for us.

    StufflerMike: Are further watch models planned?

    Wilfried: We're not running out of ideas, some new models are in the pipeline and could be realized on short notice. Next we will probably bring one or two more dial variants for the TEUFELSBERG series. Maybe even a more elegant version, but important is how sales develop.

    Mia-Phyllis: Basically, the TEUFELSBERG line-up will serve as our basic collection, accompanied by one or two other model lines. Right now we think of a watch with a slightly smaller diameter and maybe also a small(er) women's or unisex watch. And there are first ideas for a chronograph.

    Wilfried: We also play with the idea of special models, limited editions or something along those lines. But - being on the market for only two years - we need to focus on making FineWatchesBerlin known to the customers.

    StufflerMike: What was the hardest part of starting up your watch brand ?

    Wilfried: For me personally, the challenge started with making the product known on the market. Almost everything before, even though there were various challenges, was more of a flow, one resulted from the other. But the moment the watches actually arrived in Spandau, it suddenly became visibly clear: there is no way back. What previously was a project became real.

    Mia Phyllis: Yes, that's right, it is a real challenge to position a new brand on the market. Of course it is everybody's dream to live with the project right from its start when a new brand is created, especially when you are involved in product design. But nobody told us how difficult it can be to see light at the end of the tunnel. Anyway, FineWatchesBerlin was our "baby". I believe that we have done good work so far: The feedback from our customers, press and also from the experts is very encouraging.

    StufflerMike: Online sales vs. Authorized Dealers. Which channel do you see as more important for FWB?

    Wilfried: We are flexible there, for us it is not an "either-or". What we're not going to do is taking the collection suitcase and traveling through Europe to find PoS.
    I think there will be an organic mix of online and retail. In addition to our own online shop, we are also building up sales through other selected (online) design shops. We are happy that VAUND STORES in Hannover agreed to sell our watches. FineWatchesBerlin are a good fit with their portfolio.

    StufflerMike: Funding new model i via crowdfunding. Is this path something for FineWatchesBerlin?

    Mia-Phyllis: A question we asked ourselves too. And so far we have decided not to go up this alley. We have given ourselves a certain amount of time and are rather working on slowly building the brand bottom up. FineWatchesBerlin should develop over the years to a solid, healthy brand and not being sold in department stores in 5 years.

    We prefer to do it on our own. Our project is well calculated and we trust that the support and the incredible positive feedback that we have received so far will bring us far on our way.

    Wilfried: The crowdfunding platforms have made it very easy to start any project without risking your own capital. Unfortunately for many it has become like playing Monopoly.

    Such platforms certainly have their meaning and justification in today's world. Many valuable, meaningful projects would not be conceivable without this type of joint funding. But whether they have to be watches...

    StufflerMike: What would you give someone along who plans to launch their own watch brand?

    Wilfried: It always depends on what you intended with the brand. In any case, it is important to take a lot of time for the overall concept, to plan enough financial and time buffers. And you should be ready to possibly throw everything back on the pile.

    Mia_Phyllis: In my opinion, it is essential to get support and help from experts for every step. Sometimes you get lost in your own world of thoughts, so feedback from experts is essential. On the other hand, you have to be careful when making your selection, because experts are also self-interested.

    Wilfried: In addition to good planning, it is also essential for me personally to listen to myself, to let my gut feeling have the say. The plan, the idea, no matter how good, if the feeling doesn't go with it, it will be difficult.

    StufflerMike: Thank you for the interview and good luck with FineWatchesBerlin.

    More from Mike Stuffler

    ORACLE TIME - impuls buy

    In a world of exclusive complications, highly prized and priced movements and watches that break records at auctions, it’s good to be able to give back

    Valentina Blue

    In a world of exclusive complications, highly prized and priced movements and watches that break records at auction, it’s good to be able to give back – and few causes are more worthy of that kind of help than Stiftung Valentina. The foundation aims to make children’s palliative care as comfortable as possible by allowing them to stay at
    home with their families, rather than on a ward.

    Needless to say the foundation has a good deal of support across Germany, including from the father-and- daughter partnership behind Fine Watches Berlin – Mia Phyllis and Wilfried Liefer – who have created a striking blue charity timepiece.

    Fittingly dubbed the Valentina, it’s not, as you might assume from the name, a women’s timepiece. At 40.5mm, the round stainless steel case is just on the men’s side of unisex. Yet diminutive as it may be on the wrist, it’s not a watch you can easily miss.

     

     

     

    That’s almost entirely due to the Valentina’s striking colour. Polished silver indexes and lume-filled hands stand out nicely against the medium blue, as does the bright red flashes around the small seconds and the contrast stitching of the dial-matching blue strap.

    It’s a cool, colourful and intensely quirky watch, fun without being too out-there. It’s equipped with a modified Miyota automatic movement and also comes with a bright red strap if you want something even more unmistakable.

    Coming in at Euro 698 – round about £650 – it’s not a bad price for a uniquely designed timepiece.

     

     

    Valentina Blue
    Limited to 100 pieces
    SOLD OUT

    ORACLE TIME, Issue 75, Page 58

    WATCHPRO : FineWatchesBerlin encapsulates family and design with Bauhaus inspiration

    FineWatchesBerlin encapsulates family and design with Bauhaus inspiration

    By Alex Douglas, January 19, 2023

    In 1987, not only was Wilfied Liefer’s daughter, Mia-Phyllis, born, so was the idea for his own watch brand.

    It wasn’t until 30 years later though that the idea became a reality when FineWatchesBerlin came to fruition.

    “Sometimes things take time. After some self-chosen private and professional reorientations, the time had come in 2017. I found the time and leisure to realize this old dream together with my daughter.” Wilfried Liefers recalls.

    “Of course, the quality of the materials used must be right and valuable. The feel is also important to me, to feel the harmony of weight and processing quality in the hand. A good watch should inspire me to take the time to look at it again and again,” explains Mia-Phyllis Liefer.

    The duo want to address people with a strong sense of good design, while another aspect with regard to the brand image is the German capital.

    Mr Liefer explains: “The connection to Berlin is important for us. My daughter and I feel very connected to the city. I have lived here for almost 35 years and Mia-Phyllis was born here. A completely new perspective in my life opened up for me in Berlin and we try to implement this “everything is possible” in our watches.

    And one mustn’t forget that Berlin is one of the most popular and well-known cities in the world, so it’s not uninteresting in terms of marketing.”

    Adding: “Our customer has a sense, a sense of value; a new iPhone can inspire him just as much as his 30-year-old SR 500 or his handmade shoes. He gives in to the impulse to simply step out of the daily hustle and bustle, to take a moment for himself, to treat himself to something. Someone who sits down with a good cup of coffee, takes his FineWatchesBerlin off his wrist and calmly devotes himself to the many small details of the watch and enjoys it.”

    The inclined watch lover now has the choice between three product lines: “Teufelsberg”, “HansaViertel” and “Valentina”.

    What they have in common is the inner workings of Miyota in the form of the modified automatic movement 8218 or 8315 in the screwed 40.5 millimeter stainless steel case with a 42-hour or 60-hour power reserve, which is visible through the glass bottom.

    Other properties include sapphire glass, solid, applied numerals and index, hands and dots lined with luminous material, and handcrafted leather straps with a quick-change mechanism.

    The timepieces have been able to adorn themselves with their German-Made origin since 2022, because they have been produced in Ruhla ever since

    The watches retail between €698 and €749.

    WATCHPRO UK

    watchuseek: Mike Stuffler "Let me introduce you to FineWatchesBerlin"

    FineWatchesBerlin
    From Berlin with Love
    A „new" microbrand from Berlin​
    watchuseek, Feb.07.2020
    Mike Stuffler
    ​

    The Story

    I have to admit that the title might be a bit misleading. FineWatchesBerlin is not really a „new" micro brand and it is already known to those watch aficionados who had the chance to visit FineWatchesBerlin at the Aurochronos Festival in Lodz or at the Watchtime Düsseldorf event in Autumn 2019. Nevertheless, it is a young brand.

    And there's another circumstance I should mention. They are from Berlin but „FineWatchesBerlin" are not made in Berlin. However the design comes from Berlin, any proud resident of Spandau would say, hey Spandau is not Berlin, but this is is local color and only those living in Berlin and/or Spandau know what this is about, I'll leave it at that.

    Fine WatchesBerlin is a start-up as a family project. Watchmaker Wilfried Liefer and his lovely daughter Mia-Phyllis Liefer are running FineWatchesBerlin.

     

    Wilfried is a „Spandauer" for over 40 years, only two years ago Wilfried and Mia made the leap into the start-up scene. The two founded the watch design company "FineWatchesBerlin" in Wilhelmstadt, a district of Spandau, whose name derived from Kaiser Wilhelm I. On the occasion of the emperor's 100th birthday the former Potsdam suburb received its current name in 1897.

    As I already mentioned the watches are not manufactured in Berlin, but in the Far East, China. According to the founding duo, eight suppliers are working in accordance with the strict specifications from Spandau. The production is supervised and coordinated by an external specialist on site. "Cooperation between Spandau and China is running smoothly thanks to modern means of communication", explains Wilfried.

    The Spandau-based company also wants to improve the world with its products - at least by a little. €50 for each watch they sell goes to the aid organization "Hands with Hands", which is committed to the construction of schools and orphanages in Nepal and grants microcredit to women.

     

    FineWatches Berlin are little known to many, I hope this will change soon. The idea of „FineWatchesBerlin" has a long history until it became real. The idea to design watches lies somewhere in the past of Wilfried Liefer. He worked as a goldsmith for many years until 2002 and ran a long-established jewelry store in Spandau, one of my favorite shops.

    When in charge he offered smaller watch brands that were not yet well known at that time, the opportunity to present themselves to a larger audience: Jörg Schauer, Alain Silberstein, Nomos, Chronoswiss and Jacques Etoile were among them in the 1990s.

    Liefer has always had an eye for something special, something different. He let himself be infected by the passion, enthusiasm and courage of the young, aspiring watchmakers and was happy to support them. Now he has taken this step with his daughter himself.

    "The response from consumers and experts is very encouraging," says the designer, looking confidently into the future.

    Mia and Wilfried decided not to go the „most obvious" way via kickstarter or other externally financed projects, they were funding the project from private funds.

    "We want to remain completely independent - in all areas. It is important to us to realize our dream one-to-one and not to be subject to the financial interests of others, "says the daughter, who brings in her expertise as a marketing professional. Such financing is quite unusual in the days of kickstarter, crowdfunding and Co. and testifies to the self-image of the two entrepreneurs.

    One should also mention the successful packaging: handmade from rapidly growing bamboo wood, a reusable box with magnetic closure has been created. It reminds a little of Grandfather's cigar box, in which all kinds of treasures found their place in my childhood.

    The watches
    The first watch which was launched had a familiar sounding model name, all Berlin residents know very well, the „Teufelsberg Schwarz 1".

    The name of the watch comes from a man-made hill in Berlin, Germany, in the Grunewald locality of former West Berlin. In times of the cold war, there were listening devices of the US installed on top of the Teufelsberg.

    Other models with color nuances were added to the Teufelsberg 1 Black very quickly. Nowadays FineWatchesBerlin offers the following variants:
    Teufelsberg Black #1
    Teufelsberg White #2
    Teufelsberg Silver #3
    Teufelsberg Rosé #4
    and
    Valentina LE Red
    Valentina LE Blue

    Specifications:
    Apart from the different color design of the dials, of course the key data of all Teufelsberg models are identical:

    Case:
    Stainless steel three piece case with a diameter of 40.5 mm, height 11 mm, L2L: 48,5mm, lug width 20mm, polished, water resistance 5atm (splash-proof), almost unnoticeable engraving „FineWatchesBerlin by W.Liefer" on the left side of the case.
    The „Teufelsberg" weighs only 75 grams, so very comfortable to wear.
    The design of the small seconds is mirrored on the head of the crown by a white circle on blue base.
    The lugs are drilled and fitted with non functional blue crews. A nice design gimmick which is not needed at all since all watches are fitted with quick release straps. However, the blue of the screws matches the blue of the crown. Someone must have been thinking for some time on this play of colors.

    Crystal:
    Sapphire crystal (top)
    Screwed display back with sapphire crystal

    Dial:
    Double-layer dial with embedded/recessed small seconds at 4/5 o'clock and applied indices.
    The small seconds sub dial is fitted with a hand in red. Only the Valentina LE Red is fitted with a black seconds hand. Whatever dial color you chose, readability isn't an issue.
    The Hands are filled with luminous compound, so are the dots above the indexes and numerals. That being said, the watch is not made for night owls if you know what I mean.

    Movement:
    Nicely decorated Miyota 8218 automatic movement with engraved rotor („From Berlin with love") Blued screws, (machined) stripes on rotor bridge and balance cock. The 8218 is a 21 jewels movement, beating at 21,600 and provides a power reserve of approximately 42 hours.

    My impressions
    „Bauhaus" has been on everyone's lips in the watch sector for a long time now. And so it is not surprising that Fine Watches Berlin has been guided by the Bauhaus design when designing their first watch „Teufelsberg". A selection of details emphasizes its simplicity and formal appearance.

    The „Teufelsberg" is a versatile watch, offering a classic and all at once sophisticated design.

    Bit again, the Teufelsberg is not satisfying the purist (traditional) Bauhaus requirements but it is a nice Bauhaus inspired watch for sure. As a plus, the „Teufelsberg" is playing with Bauhaus colors, sometimes more sometimes less.

    Johannes Itten, who gave lectures at the Bauhaus from 1919 to 1922, gave us a color sphere comprised of twelve colors (three primary, three secondary, and six tertiary) that shows the relationship among colors, as well as gradations of saturation. This is especially aimed at the Valentina LE Red and Valentina LE Blue.

    The „Teufelsberg" models set a new standard to what we thinks and understand Bauhaus is about. A „Teufelsberg" does not follow the pattern of traditional Bauhaus watches but offers eye candy details for the beholder.

    It has large Arabic numeral hour markers only on the 3, 6, 9, and 12 o'clock positions added by 8 markers. Both, markers and numerals are applied, not printed.

    Wilfried and Mia once have been asked to describe FWB in only 4 words and here are their answers.

    Wilfried: FRESH - STRIKING - BAUHAUS - TIMELESS - PURE - MECHANICAL (designer language ?)

    Mia : FROM - BERLIN - WITH - LOVE (female logic ?)

    To sum it up, the „Teufelsberg" by FineWatchesBerlin is a very nice watch with some proper details. It is elegant and sophisticated at the same time and you feel the love to details it is made with. If you are looking for a perfect everyday watch which can be worn „casual" as well as „formal" you might have found it.
    Do I recommend it?
    ….Yes!

    Mike Stuffler at watchuseek

    WATCHPRO Market

    FineWatchesBerlin brings riot of colour to WATCHPRO Market

    FineWatchesBerlin is a labour of love for father and daughter co-founders Wilfried and Mia-Phyllyis Liefer, who launched the business back in 2017 and now sells direct to consumers online and through six retail partners in its native Germany.

    The company is looking to impress British watch lovers with an appearance at next week’s WATCHPRO Market, which runs from Friday, December 2 to Sunday, December 4, at a converted retail space under the lights of Piccadilly Circus on London’s Regent’s Street.

    FineWatchesBerlin will present two collections: HansaViertel and Tuefelsbert, which share a pared back Bauhaus aesthetic but are differentiated by details such as roman numerals and a small seconds sub dial for the Teufelsbergs and a date at 6 o’clock on the more colourful HansaViertel range.

    WATCHPRO UK

     


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